“Too beautiful and too romantic to survive” in a world of tower blocks and concrete. That’s what Sir John Betjeman said about this Victorian Gothic treasure and London’s aptly named, just opened St.Pancras Renaissance Hotel. First opened in 1873 by Queen Victoria, the Midland Grand was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott. It is said that the design evolved from 50 sketch books filled during a 3 week seaside holiday. Even Scott said it may be “too good for its purpose” and the Quarterly Review claimed, “There is no relief or quiet in any part of the work.” Innovations such as ascending rooms (elevators) and revolving doors heightened the sense of awe to arriving travelers through St. Pancras Station. The hotel remained in business until 1935 but eventually feel into disrepair and faced demolition. The decision to move the Eurostar train terminal to the St. Pancras station guaranteed the structure’s survival. Now, the revival metalwork, gold leaf ceilings, hand-stenciled wall designs, and the grand staircase are dazzling once again.
The lobby, paved with granite and covered by a glass roof was once a taxi entrance. Now its architectural elements make a direct reference to the station next door.
The grand staircase has been named Europe’s Grandest Staircase. Everything from the carpet to the gold-on-maroon fleur-de-lis wallpaper has been fully restored. Rising three stories to a vaulted ceiling, you can understand Scott’s reputation as the most eminent ecclesiastical architect of his time.
The Victorian corridors, built to allow two ladies dressed in Victorian skirts to pass each other comfortably, are wider than in most hotels.
The bathrooms are a combination of contemporary convenience with a nod to Victoriana. A word of caution-it’s helpful to have someone within earshot because there are no hand bars to grab onto and those tubs are REALLY deep!
If you go, request one of the old rooms with 18 foot ceilings and lots of character. Some have peacock wallpaper reproduced from a peacock stencil from 1901 and salvaged from behind a mirror. (This reminds me of the fragment of wallpaper from my husband’s family home that we hope to re-design soon for Casart Coverings)
If you love Victorian architecture and are catching a train to mainland Europe, the St. Pancras Renaissance is the place to stay.
– Lorre Lei
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